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02/21/2016

Ori-Nagoya obi of Hon Sukui-ori

＊Sukui-ori is one of weaving methods. It is similar with Tsuzure-ori (Figured brocade) and fits to express picturesque design, Japanese painting’s blur or shades of colors.

There are a few Hon Sukui-ori’s weaving shops now and people don’t have many chances to see great Sukui-ori’s obi. That is why we decided to create our original Nagoya obi which maximizes the effect of Sukui-ori and also fashionable.
For creating our original Nagoya obi, we have started to look at many material about woven obi in the past. We looked over many material because we believed that if we created a design by Sukui-ori, it would have better expression and richness even more. In the material, “Indian embroidered crest” attracted our attention. It did not have an impression of Indian embroidery at first sight. It had an unique shape and gave a refreshed impression, so we decided this embroidery.

Ori-Nagoya obi of Hon Sukui-ori

Next, we decided a background color.
We chose a deep green color because we had a vague idea of deep colors for the background color and we noticed that deep green or khaki color obi were rare while we had been looking blackish or brownish background color. We thought this color and the selected design would have great chemistry and they would create modern atmosphere.

However, it turned out that this background color was tricky. We realized that when we were in the process of weaving a sample. The background color is made of warp and weft, so people recognize those mixed color. In general, black or white color warp are used, but it didn't appear the color that we wanted with those warp and green color weft. We asked a weaver to try with different colors many times, and we were finally able to create the one we imagined.

Ori-Nagoya obi of Hon Sukui-ori

It was also difficult to decide the detail of effect color, but the weaver suggested us some colored thread which was our taste colors. We picked some color from the thread and left balance of colors or blurs to the weaver’s taste.
Sukui-ori is created by weavers’ sense based on a design. There are no duplicate work by sukui-ori, so the work taste differs by weavers. Both Sukui-ori and Tsuzure-ori’s technique were used on the design of our Nagoya obi. The obi becomes totally different work by weavers, because it depends on how they decide to use and mix those techniques. We had trust in the weaver and order it this time since we were actually able to meet him and know his great sense.